This new French specialist talks to Este PAIS as to why the guy thinks the brand new Swiss climber’s ascents out-of Shishapangma and you may Annapurna are not the it seem
During the 1990, Slovenian mountaineer Tomo Cesen advertised to possess scaled brand new southern area face regarding Lhotse, new fourth large slope worldwide. It had been stated a feat ever observed in Himalayan mountaineering, however, the guy cautioned which he didn’t come with pictures to prove they. In the near future after ward, although not, he considering specific snapshots – stolen out of fellow climbers who’d made an effort to get over this mountain age prior to.
From inside the 2015, French specialist Rodolphe Popier were able to show a moment lie-by the fresh Slovenian: images removed with a telephoto lens of the a pal off Cesen’s just weren’t shot at ft camp towards southern deal with away from Lhotse however, in other places.
Upcoming inside 2017, a report because of the Popier into the Ueli Steck’s solo Himalayan climbs of Shishapangma’s South Deal with plus the Annapurna massif affirmed an uncertainty you to definitely this new Swiss climber got lied regarding the his own ascents. From inside the a job interview that have Este PAIS, Popier discusses his search and you may mountaineering’s lax method of self-claimed feats.
Mountain climbing pro Rodolphe Popier: ‘I believe Ueli Steck lied’
Answer: In advance of. Indeed, I found myself just able to question him anywhere between 2015 and you may 2017, which have a face-to-deal with conference from inside the Kathmandu throughout the autumn off 2015, and some instead tense talks from inside the 2016. Eberhard Jurgalski from [rock climbing site] 8000ers commissioned us to carry out the Annapurna investigation during the 2016, in one instance, We went away from time for you talk to Steck once the the matchmaking got already deteriorated pursuing the the second fulfilling. therefore, the statement are blogged without interviews that have him.
Q. That was the new reaction of the latest jury of your yearly climbing prize Piolets d’Or after you displayed your work to the Steck to help you the fresh honor organizers during the 2017?
Good. Lindsay Griffin believed that there clearly was diminished incriminating facts so you can question their term. Christian Trommsdorff sensed his colleague Yannick Graziani, who had doubts on the one another ascents just after studying my personal studies. There’s section one of the panel you to definitely offered Ueli Steck brand new prize inside the 2014 to possess their solo ascent away from Annapurna South [performed inside 2013]. Catherine Destivelle and you will Georges Lowe transmitted the second thoughts and both congratulated myself 36 months later while i presented might work.
Q. Your claim that their intent is not to help you criminalize Cesen or Steck however, to make specific thinking about the must query getting definitive proof mountaineers’ situations?
A good. Just, which was the true spirit from could work since i began. In fact, inside 2017 I became associated with brand new Himalayan Databases and 8000ers [a couple of organizations that file climbs regarding the Himalayas], and i had been working together with the French Alpine Club, including for the Western Alpine Diary. It actually was at that time very clear for me that there was anything forgotten in http://besthookupwebsites.net/nl/hornet-overzicht the way i reached the trouble from meeting testing otherwise related affairs, and it’s really a challenge you to definitely impacts one another mountaineers and you will institutions. Whenever i showed my files inside the 2017, a conversation was sparked, nonetheless it is actually most unsatisfying observe the period regarding meditation quickly pass away out. When Steck passed away to the [Everest’s west top] Nuptse a kind of position quo was achieved. Catherine Destivelle received death risks, I happened to be entitled a myriad of names towards the social networking and it actually was hinted that we is to shed the Steck circumstances in the event the I wanted to carry on dealing with the Himalayan Database. At the same time, into the 2018 the new Groupe de- Haute Montagne [coordinator of your own Piolets d’Or] produced a somewhat incomprehensible statement where it diplomatically overlooked the fresh progress out of 2017, as soon as we had was able to wanted award candidates to incorporate “adequate paperwork of its pastime.”